The graphic above is from a painting
called "The Way They Live", by Thomas
Anchutz, 1879
The Origins of Soul Food
and How To Grow A Soul Food Culinary Garden
Soul
food has its origins mostly in the Deep South during the Slave Trade era.
Enslaved African people in America were given meager food rations that were low in
quality and nutritional value. Just enough to keep them alive and
working long days on the plantations. With these rations, enslaved
people preserved African food traditions, and adapted traditional
recipes with the resources available. Over time, these recipes and
techniques have become the Soul Food dishes we are familiar with today.
Soul Food is associated with comfort, but it was borne
out of struggle and survival.
Slave rations
were typically doled out once a week. The enslaved got five pounds of starch - which would be cornmeal, rice, or sweet potatoes;
they got a couple of pounds of smoked, salted, or dried meat, which
could be beef, fish, or pork—whatever was cheapest—and a jug of
molasses. The enslaved had to figure out how to supplement their diet,
so they gardened, foraged, and fished to get extra food. But for a lot
of them, it was really about just eating a lot of vegetables.
This page is specifically about the
cuisine, and how to grow a Soul Food Garden, easily.
To read more about the the
American Slavery Gardens, visit this page.
We
tend to celebrate the culinary contributions that immigrant cultures
have brought us. Yet we haven't really celebrated the culinary contributions of
"forced immigrants". There were many forced immigrants
from African and Carribbean areas of the world, and each has it's
distinct style of cuisine. I will be writing about the coastal Gullah
folks' cuisine in another article.
A typical soul food meal was either
smothered or fried chicken; some kind of pork—perhaps a smothered pork
chop, it could be chitlins, it could be ham hocks or pork necks; and
then usually some kind of fish, many fried. Side dishes would be greens,
and there would also be candied yams, black-eyed peas, and mac and
cheese, cornbread, hot sauce, and some kind of red drink. (In soul food
culture, red is a color and a flavor). For dessert, the
standards are banana pudding, pound cake, peach cobbler, and sweet
potato pie. Forget the marshmallows on top and pecan pie - they didn't
exist as part of the slave's diet or available to them as ingredients.
When I was a lot younger, i used to
take my Friday lunchbreaks at nearby ethnic restaurants in lower
Manhattan. There was one place that became a favorite.... Jack's
Nest.
It specialized in Soul Food. I didn't know that the stuff I called
"comfort food" had another name and a heritage. My favorites
were fried chicken, fried catfish, mac and cheese (not the slop we're
used to, but a seasoned creamy, usually white and cheezy dish topped
with buttery breadcrumbs), hot biscuits, and slow pit-roasted barbecued
ribs. My favorite characteristic of soul food was the that it made me
feel good, full, and as sedated as I get after eating Thanksgiving
dinner.
On occasion, when i visited the deep
south, I discovered that the best
ribs (which i always associated with my Soul Food) were slow-roasted in
pits for hours, alongside the rest of the pig, used mostly for pulled
pork. Rib shacks were something you had to discover. They opened their doors to the public only
just before those ribs were due to be fully cooked and ready to serve
and eat.
You
could find these little rib shacks on many backroads, seemingly in the
middle of nowhere, and a well-known secret that very few folks would
share with outsiders. You had to "know someone". These little
shacks were no frills dining at its best. There were no booths or dining
counter inside - you ate outside if you can stand the humidity, or you sat at a handful of mismatched
tables and chairs inside. There was no picnic table outdoor seating. There were no servers. You paid a person for
your meal and got it yourself from the pans. The sides were cooked at
home and brought into most places. I never saw what I'd call an actual
kitchen - i saw frying utensils behind the counter. In the heat of August, these bbq pit
places closed down - it was just too hot to have a 10 hr. fire tended.
One little place, in particular, offered a one price deal.... everything
in your dinner was
one particular price - dinner, sides, drink, and dessert, whether you
actually wanted all of those things or not.
Stars of Soul Food -
The Main Ingredients
Soul
food has a rich and important history that ties Black culture to its
African roots, and that history is reflected in the staple recipes and
techniques. In soul food cooking, there are four key ingredients that
establish a historical link to America’s dark slavery past and the
African cultures that the enslaved carried with them.
Okra
Okra
is a cornerstone of southern American cooking despite its African roots.
The slimy green vegetable (I can't stand it unless it's in a gumbo) has
a deep history, likely originating from Ethiopia. Over the centuries the
vegetable made its way through the Middle East, North Africa, and even
South Asia. It wasn’t until the 18th century when Okra made its way to
the Americas through the slave ships. Historically, okra has been used
as a soup thickener, a coffee substitute, and even as a material for
rope.
Okra
is still used today in a variety of African soups, stews, and rice
dishes. While it is usually served fried in the Deep South, many are
most familiar with okra as an ingredient in gumbo, a rich and savory
stew usually consisting of some sort of meat or seafood, vegetables, and
served with rice.
Rice
Prior to the slave trade, America
did not have rice crops.
Slave
traders intentionally took several crops native to Africa, and made
limited portions of these foods available on the slave ships, in order
to keep the enslaved alive. Once in the Americas, the enslaved Africans
grew these crops on the plantations as food sources that would keep
their energy up during the long days of hard labor.
The
transport of the African variety of rice set the foundation for the most
notable southern American culinary traditions. Since rice is a staple in
many African dishes, enslaved Africans adapted their cooking in the
Americas with the food items that were most accessible, creating some of
the most renowned soul food staples.
Pork
Pork has been the choice meat in the South for centuries, and the
preferred method of preserving the meat in the past was to salt and
smoke it. During the Atlantic slave trade, it was slaves who were
frequently given the grueling task of preserving the meat. As a result,
many of the techniques in curing meat are said to have been developed by
African-Americans of the era.
The
cheapest, least desired cuts of pork – such as the head, ribs, feet,
or internal organs were reserved for the slaves’ weekly food rations.
Otherwise destined for the master's trash or for pig slop. To mask the
poor flavor of the meat, enslaved people drew from their traditional
African cooking and used combinations of seasonings on their meat. A
mixture of hot red peppers and vinegar was very common, and this
flavoring has served as the base of many different barbecue sauces that
are still used in the South.
Greens. Lots and lots of healthy
leafy greens
Many cultures have a practice of boiling leafy greens. Several
dishes across the African continent are comparable to the collard
greens dish we are familiar with in the U.S. As one of the most recognizable
aspects of soul food cuisine, it is very clear that the culinary
technique of boiling greens has a specific link to traditional African
methods of eating.
During the slavery era, collard.
mustard and turnip greens were boiled in pork fat and seasoning with a
combination of whatever vegetables were available at the time. The
juices left over from the cooking process, known as
“potlikker”, was soaked up and eaten with cornbread. This style of
eating is reminiscent of various traditional dishes in Africa. Many
African countries have a practice of dipping a staple starch like
cornbread or bisquits into a vegetable gravy or broth. Sometimes,
dumplings were boiled with the greens.
The greens most used in Soul Food
are cabbage, collards, mustard, turnip, and kale.
Soul food is very different from
Southern cuisine.... Soul food tends to be more intense in in flavors
and seasoning. Typically, it’s going to have more fat, and it’s
going to be sweeter, spicier, and saltier. Southern and Soul Food are a
"shared cuisine". In the late 1940's, along with the jazz age,
"soul" started to become a label for almost all aspects of
black culture: soul music, soul brothers and sisters, soul food.
That's when "soul" began to mean black and "Southern"
meant white. Southern cuisine centers a lot of dishes with meat. Meat
for the enslaved was mostly scraps, of poor quality, and almost
tasteless. That's why seasonings and spices were so important and
prevalent in creating Soul Food cuisine.
Easy Soul Food Gardens
Can Be Grown in small space gardens and in raised beds
Use raised and elevated garden beds - anyone can grow vegetables
in these, closer and safer than in the ground. Perfect for those who are
space or phyically challenged. I have several types in my gardens. Keep
soil-borne insects and rabbits out.
Maintenance of the garden is very
simple, and you can grow a lot more food in your yard, using the space
above and under. Here are a few I own for my strawberry, herb and
vegetable beds. The resin garden bed lasts the longest. The cedar lasts
me through 3 or 4 northern winters and should be weatherproofed each
year. You can plant a square foot vegetable garden in these by marking
off the squares or laying a grid. The Keter large elevated planter go
together easily, and you can go without the legs on some and put it on
the ground. Grow food and flowers all along your fence line by using the
large or urban Keter beds. Triple your growing space and crops. You can
use space underneath for creeping plants, and can can insert teepees or
trellises for climbing plants.
These elevated planters make great
small space gardens on patios (my kitchen garden is growing there),
balconies,
decks, courtyards and terraces. No Bending, easy to water and
care for your plants, and hardly ever any need for weeding.
An example of a productive beginner Soul Food Garden:
If using raised beds on
legs or sitting on the soil, you can group
your veggies according to their needs - like a box full of root crops,
another with vining plants, another for greens. My greens do very well
in raised beds, and i stagger my crops. I clip greens as needed, sow more seed
every 2 weeks, and I have fresh leafy greens and scallions til Thanksgiving.
This is an example of any type of raised bed garden at ground level. I can
do more intensive growing in a smaller space with the elevated raised
beds. You can create a combination of both, by placing an elevated bed or
two within a ground-level bed.
On the sample layout
below, Cucumber to Kale means that you
would plant kale when the cucumbers are picked, Summer Squash to Turnip
means plant Turnips when Squash is done, and so on.
Easy Planting Containers
Easy raised bed soul food
gardens with galvanized tubs - I have 2 large rectangular tub planters and
4 large round ones. You can get entire sets of pre-designed raised bed
garden layouts at Home Depot and other home centers made with galvanized
steel. I prefer using the old-fashioned tubs. They look more rustic, and
less industrial. I have roses, re-blooming irises, a bog flowers and
grasses garden, and a water feature in the round ones. Galvanized pails
look great when planted with wildflowers and fruit shrubs. Different
shapes grouped together looks stunning. They seem to last forever.
Feel free to switch out plants for the one you prefer
in your cuisine. If you have room, you can add some corn, and add fruit.
You can make your garden any size you like. The
vegetable list below is for the veggie garden and can be used to design your food garden. You can
plant all of it in elevated garden beds in whatever layout you like.
Choose the herbs you use the most in your
salads and dishes, and grow the following
herbs particular to Soul Food cuisine:
Garlic, Parsley, Thyme, Sage, Rosemary,
Mint, Oregano, Marjoram.
Sage and thyme varieties include all kinds of flavors, so you can grow a
few. I like lemon sage and lemon creeping thyme in many of my dishes and
cuisines.
Vegetable
Planting Dates for Zone 6 (includes Pittsburgh)
from The Old Farmer's Almanac
- dates for other planting zones are
searchable from this page.
Popular vegetables to grow in a Soul Food
culinary Garden
If you're an urban-dwelling farmer
and lucky enough to be able to raise chickens or other livestock, these
garden vegetables and those chickens, etc. are a good beginning for an
occasional soul food feast and fresh eggs anytime. Planting a spring and fall crop
of greens keeps you healthy, and eating fresh salads and
cooked greens for 3 seasons. I clip my greens just when I'm going to use
them. They continue to grow if you leave the roots intact, and just clip
off the tops. Lettuce isn't mentioned as part of the Soul Food
ingredient gardens, but I think you should add a big salad of fresh,
sweet, leafy lettuces to your diet often, adding fresh chard and kale,
tomatoes, radishes and cucumber. In soul food cuisine, leafy greens
plucked from root crops means you get double the ingredients for your
dishes - leafy tops anytime, and the root crop when it's mature. You can
preserve some of your harvest for winter meals.
-
Collards
-
Chicory
-
Artichokes
-
Cucumber
-
Broccoli
-
Sweet Potatoes
-
Green Pepper
-
Cowpeas
-
Black-eyed peas
-
Summer and Winter Squash
-
Garlic and Onions
-
Carrots
-
Spinach
-
Radishes
-
Dandelion Greens
-
Kale
-
Mustard Greens
-
Snap Beans
-
Potatoes - white and sweet
potatoes, yams
-
Red Pepper
-
Cayenne Pepper
-
Cabbage
-
Okra
-
Peanuts
-
Tomatoes
-
Swiss Chard
-
Turnip greens
-
Beets
Article compiled and written ©2020 Mary Hyland
All rights reserved.
Sources used in the compiled article:
Naperville Magazine
Black Foodie
Epicurious
***marysbloomers.com Digital Historic Print Collection
***I have
included some images from my curated digital historic woodblock prints and
engravings on this page because i love historic art, and I hope they give
you moments of pause, reflection, and counting of your blessings, as it
did me. History books in many regions of the U.S. were/are intentionally
evasive and ingenuous in their teaching of shameful historical facts. Many
of these historic prints were published by Harper's Weekly in the mid- to
late 1800's. On this page, they are meant to be respectful and depict a
small and painful part of the struggle and the way that we perceived the
kidnap and enslavement of human beings at that time.
I found this particular print to be very beautiful
and uplifting. One of my favorites.
To read about American Slavery Gardens,
visit this page.
To learn about African
American
Heritage Gardens,
visit this page.
To read about Medieval Serf and Peasant Gardens,
visit
this page.
Design, graphics,
articles and
photos ©2020 marysbloomers.com™
All rights reserved.
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